Japan: Nikko Senhime Monogatari
When I travel internationally, I'm the type that likes to fit in as much as possible. I don't know whether I'll be able to go back to a particular country again, so I tend to cram as many cities as I can in one trip. Jiejie's style of travelling is essentially the exact opposite. Her worst nightmare is bouncing from city to city with luggage in tow.
As a compromise, for our Japan trip back in September, we kept Tokyo as our home base and took a little two-day-one-night trip to Nikko. The idea was to keep things as stress-free as possible by leaving our luggage at the Airbnb in Tokyo and only taking with us what we needed for a night away.
I should've known things wouldn't be that simple.
First we got lost trying to find our train to Nikko because we didn't realize that there were two different train stations at the Tokyo Skytree. There's the Tokyo Skytree Station on the Tobu line and then the Oshiage Station on the subway line and they have COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENTRANCES.
We ended up missing our train and wasting the extra money we paid for a limited express ticket.
We ultimately managed to get to Nikko in one piece and fortunately the shuttle to our ryokan was right where it promised to be. We arrived at Nikko Senhime Monogatari well before our check-in time:
After dropping off our luggage at the front desk (yes, somehow CK and Jiejie still managed to have luggage for a one-night mini trip), we set out to explore. We hit up all the major temples, found a quiet soba restaurant for lunch, and then gradually made our way back to Senhime Monogatari.
We were still a tad early for our 3:00 pm check in time, but we were brought tea and a snack while we waited:
Once our room was ready, we headed upstairs. CK promptly conked out. Jiejie decided to check out the ryokan's onsen. As for me, I set out on my own to find the Kanmangufuchi Abyss and its 70-some stone statues:
By the time I made it back to the ryokan, CK was conscious again, Jiejie was in and out of the onsen like shabu shabu (her words, not mine), and dinner was ready for us in the dining room:
There were a few reasons why I decided on Senhime Monogatari over the many other ryokans in Nikko. The two most important reasons were: 1) its onsen (for CK and Jiejie) and 2) its kaiseki dinner.
Kaiseki involves multiple courses with small plates. A few were already set out for us when we were seated at our table. The rest were brought out course by course. Thanks to the printed menu with English translations, I can tell you exactly what we ate that night.
There was an assorted appetizer plate that was supposed to provide a taste of early autumn:
Besides tea, there was also a Senhime original cocktail that I did not drink because I am a child that cannot abide the taste of alcohol:
The assorted sashimi was beautifully plated:
While the clear soup with minced duck was clean and soul-warming:
I'm not usually a fan of hot pot, but even I can enjoy a beef shabu shabu from time to time:
Under the thin slices of beef were veggies and udon noodles.
There was one bite of a grilled flatfish:
And yuba simmered in a seasoned broth:
Yuba, made with tofu skin, is a local Nikko specialty. It was a bit hit with CK.
There was rice cooked with burdock:
And a simple miso soup:
The pickled veggies were simple, yet so delicious with rice:
And the final savory course was the deep fried tilefish and shiitake mushroom:
At the very end, we were brought an assortment of tiny desserts:
Then back to our room we went. CK squeezed in a trip to the onsen, we all put on a face mask, and then we all turned in for bed.
Being naked in front of others makes me deeply uncomfortable, so I was prepared to skip the onsen myself. However, CK and Jiejie kept telling me how nice it was and how it really was an experience I shouldn't miss out on. I decided if I was going to go, the best time would be at 5:00 am when nobody else would be there.
I tossed and I turned all night before finally waking up around 4:30 am to watch Youtube videos on silent about onsen etiquette. I texted with CL back in California about whether or not I should go and she only had one piece of advice for me, "Don't go with friends."
As if I was going to do that.
I finally screwed up my courage, snuck out of the room, and went down to the open-air onsen. What nobody told me was that 5:00 am is prime old lady onsen time. It was me and a bunch of little Japanese ladies all over the age of 70. I was careful not to make eye contact with anyone and after a quick rinse, I slipped into one of the empty pools.
I sat there for a few minutes. I stared at the sky. I stared at the rocks. I counted my fingers. All ten were there. I counted them again. Still ten.
I tried moving to a different pool. I sat for a few minutes. I stared at the tiles. Aaaaand, I decided I was bored and that it was time to go. I went, I experienced it, I saw some naked old lady boobs, and now I never have to go to another onsen again. Thank goodness.
I shared my trauma with CK and Jiejie over breakfast, which was once again served in the dining room:
Instead of dishes being brought out course by course, everything was laid out all at once.
There was natto, pickled veggies, tamago (egg), and fish roe:
There was salad, grilled fish, and more yuba:
One of my favorites was the soft tofu pot into which you poured this light soy sauce:
Then there was a clear broth and a little yogurt with fruit.
Of course there had to be rice and more pickled veggies:
And both tea and orange juice:
It might seem like a lot, but the portions were small, which left us feeling satisfied, yet not overly stuffed. Each dish was also super light, with not a sign of grease in sight. I find a lot of joy in eating food from tiny dishes, so this was right up my alley.
Despite the unexpected stress (which was totally self-inflicted), Nikko Senhime Monogatari was a lovely place to just get away. The service was impeccable, the room super comfortable, and the food amazing. If onsen is your thing, you'll love Senhime Monogatari. It may be a bit of a splurge, but it's worth it.
日光千姫物語
〒321-1432栃木県日光市安川町6-48
+81 288-54-1010
http://www.senhime.co.jp/en/
As a compromise, for our Japan trip back in September, we kept Tokyo as our home base and took a little two-day-one-night trip to Nikko. The idea was to keep things as stress-free as possible by leaving our luggage at the Airbnb in Tokyo and only taking with us what we needed for a night away.
I should've known things wouldn't be that simple.
First we got lost trying to find our train to Nikko because we didn't realize that there were two different train stations at the Tokyo Skytree. There's the Tokyo Skytree Station on the Tobu line and then the Oshiage Station on the subway line and they have COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENTRANCES.
We ended up missing our train and wasting the extra money we paid for a limited express ticket.
We ultimately managed to get to Nikko in one piece and fortunately the shuttle to our ryokan was right where it promised to be. We arrived at Nikko Senhime Monogatari well before our check-in time:
After dropping off our luggage at the front desk (yes, somehow CK and Jiejie still managed to have luggage for a one-night mini trip), we set out to explore. We hit up all the major temples, found a quiet soba restaurant for lunch, and then gradually made our way back to Senhime Monogatari.
We were still a tad early for our 3:00 pm check in time, but we were brought tea and a snack while we waited:
Once our room was ready, we headed upstairs. CK promptly conked out. Jiejie decided to check out the ryokan's onsen. As for me, I set out on my own to find the Kanmangufuchi Abyss and its 70-some stone statues:
By the time I made it back to the ryokan, CK was conscious again, Jiejie was in and out of the onsen like shabu shabu (her words, not mine), and dinner was ready for us in the dining room:
There were a few reasons why I decided on Senhime Monogatari over the many other ryokans in Nikko. The two most important reasons were: 1) its onsen (for CK and Jiejie) and 2) its kaiseki dinner.
Kaiseki involves multiple courses with small plates. A few were already set out for us when we were seated at our table. The rest were brought out course by course. Thanks to the printed menu with English translations, I can tell you exactly what we ate that night.
There was an assorted appetizer plate that was supposed to provide a taste of early autumn:
Besides tea, there was also a Senhime original cocktail that I did not drink because I am a child that cannot abide the taste of alcohol:
The assorted sashimi was beautifully plated:
While the clear soup with minced duck was clean and soul-warming:
I'm not usually a fan of hot pot, but even I can enjoy a beef shabu shabu from time to time:
Under the thin slices of beef were veggies and udon noodles.
There was one bite of a grilled flatfish:
And yuba simmered in a seasoned broth:
Yuba, made with tofu skin, is a local Nikko specialty. It was a bit hit with CK.
There was rice cooked with burdock:
And a simple miso soup:
The pickled veggies were simple, yet so delicious with rice:
And the final savory course was the deep fried tilefish and shiitake mushroom:
At the very end, we were brought an assortment of tiny desserts:
Then back to our room we went. CK squeezed in a trip to the onsen, we all put on a face mask, and then we all turned in for bed.
Being naked in front of others makes me deeply uncomfortable, so I was prepared to skip the onsen myself. However, CK and Jiejie kept telling me how nice it was and how it really was an experience I shouldn't miss out on. I decided if I was going to go, the best time would be at 5:00 am when nobody else would be there.
I tossed and I turned all night before finally waking up around 4:30 am to watch Youtube videos on silent about onsen etiquette. I texted with CL back in California about whether or not I should go and she only had one piece of advice for me, "Don't go with friends."
As if I was going to do that.
I finally screwed up my courage, snuck out of the room, and went down to the open-air onsen. What nobody told me was that 5:00 am is prime old lady onsen time. It was me and a bunch of little Japanese ladies all over the age of 70. I was careful not to make eye contact with anyone and after a quick rinse, I slipped into one of the empty pools.
I sat there for a few minutes. I stared at the sky. I stared at the rocks. I counted my fingers. All ten were there. I counted them again. Still ten.
I tried moving to a different pool. I sat for a few minutes. I stared at the tiles. Aaaaand, I decided I was bored and that it was time to go. I went, I experienced it, I saw some naked old lady boobs, and now I never have to go to another onsen again. Thank goodness.
I shared my trauma with CK and Jiejie over breakfast, which was once again served in the dining room:
Instead of dishes being brought out course by course, everything was laid out all at once.
There was natto, pickled veggies, tamago (egg), and fish roe:
There was salad, grilled fish, and more yuba:
One of my favorites was the soft tofu pot into which you poured this light soy sauce:
Then there was a clear broth and a little yogurt with fruit.
Of course there had to be rice and more pickled veggies:
And both tea and orange juice:
It might seem like a lot, but the portions were small, which left us feeling satisfied, yet not overly stuffed. Each dish was also super light, with not a sign of grease in sight. I find a lot of joy in eating food from tiny dishes, so this was right up my alley.
Despite the unexpected stress (which was totally self-inflicted), Nikko Senhime Monogatari was a lovely place to just get away. The service was impeccable, the room super comfortable, and the food amazing. If onsen is your thing, you'll love Senhime Monogatari. It may be a bit of a splurge, but it's worth it.
日光千姫物語
〒321-1432栃木県日光市安川町6-48
+81 288-54-1010
http://www.senhime.co.jp/en/
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