Japan: Tsunahachi

Since Jiejie preferred to be based in Tokyo for the 10 days that we were there, we compromised by throwing in some day trips.  Jiejie was very much interested in visiting Enoshima because she'd heard it was basically an island of cats.  I didn't care so much about the cats, but I read there was some good snacks there, so I was on board.  CK was ready for both cats and snacks.

But the day before our Enoshima trip, Jiejie asked us if we really wanted to go.  She was totally okay with splitting up if we were going to end up following her around the island, watching her play with cats.  CK and I discussed it and decided we wouldn't mind an extra day in Tokyo to eat the things Jiejie wasn't interested in.

So that's what we did.  Jiejie is not a fan of tempura, while CK and I were really curious about Tsunahachi:


Opened in 1923, Tsunahachi has a long history of serving traditional Edo style tempura.  They have many branches across Japan, but the flagship is in Shinjuku.  We didn't have a reservation, but managed to get seated for lunch with barely any wait.  It would've been nice to sit at the counter to watch the masters at work, but alas, there were only seats available at the tables.

Tsunahachi has a no photo policy in its restaurant.  I was totally prepared to abide by their rules, but then the food was set before us and I could not resist.  So if the photos seem a bit rushed, that's why.

The menu offered a range of tempura set meals.  If you want to go all out, you can take the omakase route for ¥8000 ($73.98).  We went with the mid-range Edomae zen set (¥4200 / $38.84).

To start, we were brought rice, miso soup, Japanese pickles, and a little platter of tempura:


The little platter was plated in front of us by our server.  One by one, she delicately set down the Japanese tiger prawn, squid, lotus root, and mushroom:


Once the plate was removed, we were brought a clam and a small fish:


Then came a basket with anago (sea eel) and kakiage (small shrimps):


As well as this shot of chilled creamy corn soup.  We weren't sure if it was meant to be dessert, but it was slightly sweet and so, so smooth.

My favorite part of the meal was actually something that I added on a la carte.  I just couldn't believe that egg yolk tempura (¥150 / $1.39) was a thing:


My mind was blown when I bit into it and the golden yolk gushed out:


(Don't worry.  None of that glorious yolk was wasted.  I sopped up every last bit with the rice.)

Tempura can sometimes feel a little greasy, but not at Tsunahachi.  In the hands of these experts, the tempura comes out light and crisp.  Now, not going to lie, $40 is a bit steep for a meal with only eight pieces of tempura, but it was worth it for the experience.  You can feel how care is put into each individual piece.

I would go back for the egg yolk tempura alone though.  The next time I go, I'm going to order a dozen.

To start.


天ぷら新宿つな八
東京都新宿区新宿 3-31-8
03-3352-1012
http://www.tunahachi.co.jp/

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